Colombo rewards a proper day. Gangaramaya Temple at morning prayer – the incense, the layered interior, the particular calm before the city gets going. The extraordinary organised chaos of Pettah Market. The Dutch Hospital precinct for lunch in a beautifully restored colonial building. The Lotus Tower viewpoint in the afternoon. Galle Face Green at sunset, where the city’s full social range arrives each evening and the Indian Ocean is right there. A city that most travellers move through too quickly and almost always wish they hadn’t.